A Girl in the World

urban living

Dusk in the city

May 19, 2010

There is a change a comin’ in bustling Buenos Aires. The days are a little shorter, the air a little crisper, the wind a refreshing coolness on the cheeks. It’s Autumn.  And wow, it’s beautiful.

Spanish classes run every weekday from 5.30 to 7.30 PM.  It’s a 40 minute walk to class from our flat and I do the entire roundtrip on foot.  I trek the equivalent of about 3.5 km each way and I love it.  The walk home in the evening has got to be one of my favourite moments of the day.
Tonight, the sun is a blazing pink and orange, the city is mad with traffic.  Streets are packed with pedestrians clamoring up from the subways or rushing home from work. Dogs are barking, kids are being rushed between after-school programs and home, restaurants are lighting candles, shop vendors are sweeping sidewalks.  There is a warm aroma of food roasting in the air.

At dusk, this city comes to life.  9 million people rushing to the heartbeat of another new evening, another ended day.  At dusk, work is swept aside to make way for family, for food, for friends.

It is absolutely breathtaking.

Crazy big cities have always done this to me.  New York, Cairo, London, Shanghai.  I’ve come to love the chaos, the sheer volume of people, the colours and the sounds. Somehow amidst the anarchy, I find peace.  I feel small, insignificant, humbled.  I feel a rhythm outside myself, a heartbeat, a drum.  There is so much life!

A young beggar, a suited business-man, a fruit vendor on the corner.  No matter who they are and what they do, we are all a part of this crazy, jumbled mess of a metropolitan.

Stepping back to watch the movement, to feel the rush of bodies and somehow float above the chaos and hear silence – it is an amazing feeling.  Everything somehow becomes one.  The colours blur.  The sirens, the honking, the barking of dogs.  The traffic, the breeze and the gorgeous blazing sunset that no one seems to notice. Everything becomes a rhythmic mess.  So beautiful.

Presence.

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Gawd I love Latin America.  They just know how to prioritize all the important things in life.  Forget efficient governments, reliable laws and customer service.  There is passion, great food, tango, gratuitous shows of affection in public, and hoochierobics.

Hoochierobics!

After last night’s not-so-great Reggaeton classes, I figured Areo Interval would be more, you know, technical.  I’d imagined step aerobics with weights and tae-bo and whatever else areo intervals are all about.  Thankfully, I was wrong.

It’s like aerobics but sluttier.  You mambo, you salsa, you grind your ass right down to the floor.  Imagine this and this and this blasting so loud you can’t hear yourself think.  There are mirrors and hips and jiggling and sweat.  It’s aerobics on crack.

What a great way to spend an hour on a random Tuesday night.  Inappropriate dancing, taught by an instructor who inappropriately flirts with the all-female attendees, grinding, sweating, singing and cha-cha-cha-ing all in the name of good health.  Amen to Argentinian aerobics classes.

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Reggaeton

May 4, 2010

I’ve been toying with the idea of getting a gym membership lately and last night, I finally decided YES.  I’m not a gym person.  I can’t do treadmills and weights and elliptical machines all by myself.  The last time I did well at a gym was when I had a trainer.

All of this working from home and taking long walks by the park has been great but my energy levels have been low low low lately. So, I’ve decided to gym it.

Let me just say that Reggaeton dance classes are great.  But you know what I realized?  Reggaeton is actually only *really* great when you’re drunk in some bar in the middle of Lisbon with 4 of your closest girl friends.  Reggaeton at 9 PM on a Monday night while completely sober is SO NOT the same experience. At all.

I think I’ll stick to plain ol’ vanilla aerobics on weeknights.

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Argentina is known for its beautiful people and delicious steaks.  Thailand is known for it’s pristine beaches and top-notch customer service.  Thailand and steaks don’t fit.  And neither do Argentina and top-notch customer service.  That’s because there is none.

Ok, I’m joking.  Of course there’s customer service in Argentina.  Restauranteurs, shop owners, security guards, teachers and cabbies – we’ve met some of the sweetest.  But in general, it’s hard to find quality, feel-good, they’ve-gone-above-and-beyond customer service here.

Whether it’s the help centre for a mobile, internet or telephone company, people just don’t seem to care.  You call, someone answers and if the question is standard, you get a standard, canned-response reply.  But if the question you have requires an answer that isn’t in the books, don’t expect to problem-solve through it together.  Most of the time, the person on the other side of the line will just hang up.

Yes.  Hang up.  It is crazy.

We’ve met various entrepreneurs from the expat community here and time and time again, they say that the biggest opportunities locally lie in improving the customer experience.  It’s just bad.

You call a manufacturer about possibly sourcing goods from his shop and you don’t hear back for weeks (if at all).  It boggles my mind that companies don’t value the fact that I’m an interested, willing customer, ready to give my money for a good or service they provide.  Why are they not tripping over themselves to serve me and serve me well?  The spoilt North American consumer in me just can’t understand it.  It’s backward economics.

But a closer look reveals something different.  It’s economics, yes, but not necessarily backwards.

Because salaries here are so low (minimum wage is 1800 pesos a month, which translates to about $450 USD) and opportunities for advancement are virtually non-existent, it’s hard to command above-and-beyond performance in low to mid-wage jobs.  We’ve heard of cases where telecentre workers are told that they should average 90 seconds per call.  There are no customer satisfaction metrics, no recorded calls, no CRM systems tracking past queries.  Just you and the stopwatch.

But of course, what else would you expect from a place where inflation runs rampant, where economic stability changes with the seasons, where cost cutting and cash are king.

Manufacturers don’t hold inventory, which means they aren’t tripping over themselves to sell it.  They’ll make it on demand, but only if fully paid.  This means it’s more profitable to maintain current relationships than go after leads that may yield zero or low volume business.

There is no concept of credit here. Inflation fluctuates so frequently that some restaurants don’t print prices on their menus – you have to ask.

Here, the economic stability that we take for granted in places like North America and Europe does not exist.  This is why come pay day, people line up at Cambio shops to change pesos to dollars.  Better to keep savings in cold, hard Benjamins than to risk investing pesos in banks.

And so, in a place where financial stability for the average person is dependent more on the political and economic policies in place at any given time than on personal effort, priorities shift.  Instead of focusing on career advancement, promotions and innovation in the workplace, people focus on more tangible, controllable benefits: family, friends and leisure time.  People don’t live to work.  They live to live.

They live to live.  And it is obvious.  On Sundays, businesses are closed, families crowd the parks, coffee shops are packed, subways and buses are empty.  Meals are 3-hour long marathons of storytelling, laughter and shared time.  Friends see each other weekly, not monthly.  People get to know their neighbours.

I won’t take back my opinion that customer service here is bad.  It can definitely be improved.  But there is so much more to it than just that.  There are larger forces at work here – political, economic, historical – that help explain the workings of a place.

For me, it’s all been a long lesson on perspective.  Give your best, in everything, regardless of what reward systems are in place.  Don’t take for granted functioning, (mostly) efficient governments. Treasure the softer, lovelier, immeasurable goodness of family, friends and leisure time in your life.

Live to live.

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Simpler times

April 5, 2010

On Sunday afternoon, we decided to walk over to the Hippodromo Palermo to watch some horse racing.  Gambling on an Easter Sunday wasn’t exactly part of the plan but it was a great excuse to walk through the parks and get some sunshine.

During the hour-long trek over, I thought a lot about why it is that I’ve decided to spend another 9 weeks in this city, in the middle of Autumn, in a place that feels a million miles away from home.  Buenos Aires is as far south as Capetown.

Besides obvious things like matters of the heart, an affordable cost of living and some interesting business opportunities, there’s definitely something more about this place that keeps me close.  Right now, I’m sitting at a corner coffee shop on a Monday morning watching dog walkers run their daily routes.  There is a butcher around the corner that sells fresh meats and chickens, a pizzeria down the street and a fresh produce stand with the most gorgeous garlic bulbs I’ve ever seen.

There’s a feeling of community here that’s hard to find in other big cities around the world.  The grocery shop will deliver any purchase over $150 pesos (30 USD) to your door.  Similar to big cities like NY and London, grocery chains here understand that urban living in large apartment blocks requires a level of service unheard of in the suburbs.  Grocery delivery isn’t a new idea to me.  But here, as we walked home with our few bags of food a few nights ago, I was stunned to see delivery boys walking wheeled carts across the street ready to deliver groceries around the neighbourhood.  I don’t know why I found it so humbling.  I expected a large Carrefour truck to come barreling around the corner ready to tackle the day’s orders in record time.  Instead, a small army of ‘walkers’ hand deliver each bin to apartments big and small. I laughed.  It is so charming.

That same evening, we stumbled across a local video rental store.  Amazingly, they too deliver.  With delight, I tweeted about it:

dcg another reason i love buenos aires: video rental delivery. choose a movie, phone the store and they come with the dvd to your door. =)


My friend replied:

@dcg you need netflix instant play


To which I replied:

dcg @christosap but i like the door-to-door delivery precisely because it is so old-school. simpler times, simpler times. =)


And maybe that’s exactly why this place pulls at me so.  It’s a modern, crazy, bustling mess but somehow, in the heart of these tree-lined neighbourhoods, there’s still a way to connect to simpler times, where lives are lived not only in the confines and securities of home but also at produce stands and butcher shops and coffee terraces along sidewalks and parks.  Here, I feel a part of the community.  And that’s important.  Being a part of something bigger than yourself is important.  It feels nice.

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