A Girl in the World

buenos aires

Child on the roof

Big city living in Buenos Aires is a strange brew of high-energy excitement, chaos and commerce. Nearly a quarter of Argentina’s 40 million residents live and dwell here. The city is sprawling, dirty and beautiful. Immaculate apartment lofts coexist alongside open garbage piles. It’s a metro of dichotomies. One day I am dining with friends of ex-presidents and on the next am brought to tears by the humble love of the cleaning lady. I am enraged and heartbroken all at once, often at the extremes of human emotion amidst the poverty, excess and hardship that this city’s streets throw at me each day. I love and hate it here. It is a mirror that forces me to face the demons of my imperfection. Can I be compassionate, patient, open and strong? Will this city, with its anger and apathy, engulf me or will I rise above?

And then like a flash, a moment of pure innocence catches my breath. I am reminded of what is good and true.

Of God.

A little girl squeals with joy playing with her doll on a rooftop cement playground just after a rainstorm.

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A summer downpour.

It’s amazing how you can hop on a plane for twelve hours and skip the winter. It’s summer here in the Southern Hemisphere and every other day in Buenos Aires, we’re treated to a rainstorm. Warm, jungle-heavy, suddenly-starting-out-of-nowhere rainstorms. Beautiful.

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Sunday coffee in Palermo, Buenos Aires.

Often, the promise of a true tender moment is enough to compel us to travel half way around the world. How a quiet coffee at a street side café can be the most perfect thing in the world, I can’t explain. But on this Sunday morning, it was everything.

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Dusk in the city

May 19, 2010

There is a change a comin’ in bustling Buenos Aires. The days are a little shorter, the air a little crisper, the wind a refreshing coolness on the cheeks. It’s Autumn.  And wow, it’s beautiful.

Spanish classes run every weekday from 5.30 to 7.30 PM.  It’s a 40 minute walk to class from our flat and I do the entire roundtrip on foot.  I trek the equivalent of about 3.5 km each way and I love it.  The walk home in the evening has got to be one of my favourite moments of the day.
Tonight, the sun is a blazing pink and orange, the city is mad with traffic.  Streets are packed with pedestrians clamoring up from the subways or rushing home from work. Dogs are barking, kids are being rushed between after-school programs and home, restaurants are lighting candles, shop vendors are sweeping sidewalks.  There is a warm aroma of food roasting in the air.

At dusk, this city comes to life.  9 million people rushing to the heartbeat of another new evening, another ended day.  At dusk, work is swept aside to make way for family, for food, for friends.

It is absolutely breathtaking.

Crazy big cities have always done this to me.  New York, Cairo, London, Shanghai.  I’ve come to love the chaos, the sheer volume of people, the colours and the sounds. Somehow amidst the anarchy, I find peace.  I feel small, insignificant, humbled.  I feel a rhythm outside myself, a heartbeat, a drum.  There is so much life!

A young beggar, a suited business-man, a fruit vendor on the corner.  No matter who they are and what they do, we are all a part of this crazy, jumbled mess of a metropolitan.

Stepping back to watch the movement, to feel the rush of bodies and somehow float above the chaos and hear silence – it is an amazing feeling.  Everything somehow becomes one.  The colours blur.  The sirens, the honking, the barking of dogs.  The traffic, the breeze and the gorgeous blazing sunset that no one seems to notice. Everything becomes a rhythmic mess.  So beautiful.

Presence.

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Lèche-vitrines

May 18, 2010

Translated to English, lèche-vitrines literally means lick the windows. This is the French phrase for window shopping (sometimes the French can be so brilliant I could almost forgive them for their snobbiness!). If window shopping is licking windows, then here, I’m slobbering all over the glass. And if I could fit the door into my mouth, I’d do it.

The shopping here is beautiful. BOOTIFUL. I’ve never seen shop windows so painstakingly dressed and pampered. Beautiful lighting, great colours and mannequins styled so trendily that you can’t help but stop and stare. It’s like unabashedly ogling a beautiful woman who’s made of plastic. Barring Bourdain-inspired food porn, I’ve never been so lustful. I actually lust after these mannequins. I desire the brown leather boots under the spotlight. I want to cuddle that soft, curvy, oversized shoulder bag. I am a bundle of greedy shopping angst.

It is ridiculous.

Figuring out where I’d like to be and what I’d like to be doing next is kind of like window shopping.  Actually, I’ve been lèche-vitrine-ing for the past year.  I packed up my oversized shopping bag, hit the road and ‘tried on’ a bunch of new things.  I wanted to see what else is out there.  And you know what? There is just so much world out there.

There is camping through Africa for a month and not killing your boyfriend in the process.  There is Italy in August, with grotesque amounts of gelato at breakfast, lunch and dinner.  There is Vancouver in the rain.  There is language school.  There is bumping into familiar faces and feeling all warm and fussy inside.  There is a chance meeting that turns into a business partnership.  There is web design, there is tango, there is photography.  There is the Vancouver Olympics and one of the most memorable moments of a nation’s history.  There is crying and laughter and hopefulness.  There is contract work, work for fun, work for play, no work at all and work every day.  There is fear.  There is excitement.  There is a vast and open sea.

If licking the window is a show of lust for clothing, bags and shoes, then this nomad life that both tests and inspires me must be the equivalent form of sample sale-ing life.  Try first, buy later.  It’s like life on consignment: swap out the old, in with the new, always with some option to change your mind.  A gap year on steroids.  An experiment in mobile living.  An answer to the itch that just won’t go away.

Licking the windows of life’s many shops has been trying at times.  Lusting after the next adventure, the change of scenery, the new challenge, it has all been an incredible way to discover all the possibilities out there.  But with the wanting, comes angst.  And angst, like during the teen years, comes with its combination of goods and bads.  Stimulation and exhaustion.  Fullness and emptiness.  Desire and fear.  The ying and the yang.

Trying to both build something for the long term and seek experiences in the now can leave one in a state of seeming limbo.  In between.  Sometimes the window shopping has been amazing, other times I just want to give my credit card to someone and just buy something already.

And I ask myself, Why haven’t I found that perfect next thing?  What am I waiting for?

Nothing.  I haven’t found the next permanent thing because it hasn’t come just yet.  And sometimes, in my search to find the next permanent thing, I lose sight of the ever changing now.  Presence.  It is so important to be present.  And the present isn’t such a bad place.

There is time, there is space, there is freedom.  There is here or there, for as long or as short as I want.  There is writing and photography, or none at all.  There are new projects and old projects.  And there is always an opportunity to learn, if I am open to seeing it.  Presence.  Present.  Both are blessings if we take the time to see.

So, while I’ve got the time, the freedom, the energy and the lust for peeking inside different windows and trying things on for a while, there’s no rush to make a big purchasing decision right now.  Window shopping is just fine.

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Juicy, bloody, fresh, soft, tender. The steak here in Argentina is to die for (so I’ve heard). I’m not a meat eater. I know, crazy right? I currently reside in the meat eating capital of the universe.  It seems a sin that my mouth refuses to water at the mere mention of lomo or entraña or bife de chorizo.  An average Argentinian eats approximately 155 pounds of beef each year (that’s like my boyfriend eating the equivalent of 1.3 me’s!).  Vegetarianism is definitely not cool here.  Actually, most people think it’s just plain silly.

So it’s no surprise that this city would be home to some amazing parillas (steakhouses), the kind that put any high-end steak house in San Francisco to shame.  Our favourites include Las Cabras, Don Julio and La Dorita.  They offer varied menus, great quality food and lively ambiance, all at reasonable prices.

At these places, I always manage to get a good chicken dish while stealing bites of steak here and there.  We have fantastic wine, a fresh salad and if there’s room, some form of postre with dulce de leche dripping from the spoon.

But sometimes, especially after gorging myself with food porn courtesy of Anthony Bourdain, the Asian in me just needs some rice damnit!  I want good ol’ glutenous rice!  So, by end of week when it’s time to decide where to go for a Friday evening date, we always manage to find our way into a trendy Asian/Arabic/Indian food joint.

If steak is Argentina’s greatest food asset, let’s just say that rice and anything to do with it is not.  Each time we go “foreign”, we get burned.  Bad.  Bereber’s Morroccan food got on the wrong plane between there and here, while picking up a few fancy lamps from Egypt and a colourful throw pillow along the way.  The restaurant is well decorated, but the food leaves much to be desired.

And don’t get me started on the sushi in this city!  Tuna rolls include canned tuna, cream cheese and something green that should taste like wasabi but does not.

So, when we entered a beautiful, candlelit place called Quibombo near Plaza Armenia in Palermo for a snack, I shouldn’t have expected much.  The menu touts all-natural Indian and Asian foods like mango lassi’s, falafel and chicken teriyaki.  The place is beautifully decorated, with plush cushions, low chairs, draping fabrics and well-placed candles.  In fact, because it was so aesthetically pleasing we couldn’t help but get excited about the food.

We ordered mango banana lassi’s, a falafel appetizer and maldioca chips and fries.  The servings were small but tasty.  The lassi didn’t taste like lassi at all, but at least it contained more milk than water.  I was impressed.  Considering our disappointing experiences with international cuisine, this place wasn’t so bad.  The boy thought otherwise.

He took one sip of the supposed lassi and made a face.  It’s like a bad milkshake!! he said.  When the little plates came, he couldn’t help but chuckle.  Tiny! his face said.  T.I.N.Y.  Ok fine, they were tiny but they were good.  Really good.

When the waiter came and asked how we liked everything, I replied with a smile.  The boy, on the other hand, had no problems telling him that the lassi tasted like a bad milkshake, that he couldn’t taste the mango, that the servings were small.  Ha.  The waiter apologized, cleared our table and came back with a discount on our drinks.  He apologized for our dissatisfaction.  How nice!

Needless to say, we enjoyed our afternoon snack.  A few hours of coffee talk in a beautiful room overlooking the cobblestone streets of Palermo was well worth the adventure.

The moral(s) of the story:

  1. When in Argentina, do like the Argentinians and stick to steak if you’re craving an excellent meal.
  2. Regardless of how the food tastes, restaurants here are just GORGEOUS.  Appreciate with your eyes as well as with your tongue.
  3. If you don’t like the food and the waiter asks what you thought at the end of the meal, speak your mind.  Help them improve.  Otherwise, it’s just useless bitching. =)

PS:  Through recommendations from a friend, we did find a beautiful English pub called Bangalore that has a small Indian restaurant upstairs.  The food is rich and creamy (although not very spicy), the space is small and intimate, and the atmosphere is great for a mellow Friday night.  I’d definitely recommend it.

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Congresso

May 11, 2010

As crazy as this city can be, it never ceases to amaze me just how beautiful some of the architecture is. We’ll be driving by some random neighbourhood and catch a glimpse of perfectly restored French colonial buildings.

These are from Plaza Congresso.

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Never did we make friendships

This is the welcome banner that would greet you as the opposing team when you enter La Bombonera (Boca Junior’s home stadium). Charming, arrogant, shameless. So sweetly Argentinian.

Last night we attended the last Boca Juniors home game until August. We didn’t stay in the sheltered tourist area, nor did we get numbered seats.  We came in through the piss dripping back stairwells of the standing-only section to sing and dance with a mass of people so passionate about their football, I couldn’t help but feel jealous.

 

 

We sat in these stands just a few feet up from where this video was taken. Total chaos.
Where does all of this feeling come from? How can grown men shout so hard, sing so beautifully, dance and jump and scream like I’ve never seen in North America or Europe?

 

Football is a mysterious thing.  Its lure and grandeur escaped us in Canada where all matter of sport and debauchery is centered around hockey.  I’d always wanted to attend a football match in South America but had heard how difficult it is to find good, local tickets.  We don’t do clean, tourist packages where you sit in a protected little box to watch the match as if it were on TV.  We wanted to be thick in the chaos, in the noise, with the musk of emotion around us.  So, when a friend mentioned a cheap, dodgy hostel offering available, we jumped on it.  It’s the kind of package probably monitored by la doce but organized by local folk (It’s a known fact that all ‘foreigner’ tickets are handled and sold by the Boca hooligans, referred to as la doce).  The ‘company’ who organized everything for us doesn’t have a website for ‘safety reasons’.  Ha.

We gathered at a pick-up point until a rickety old school bus blasting reggaeton music came barreling around the corner to take us to a parilla and beer jaunt in a conventillo near La Bombonera.  It’s like tailgating, Argentinian style.  Then we were walked into the stadium in large groups, were searched more thoroughly than at an airport security line and passed through side streets and back allies that looked like war zones.   Smoke, barricades and black-helmeted riot policemen at every corner.  Fun!

As game time approached, the beat of drums echoed in the nearby streets.  They have a band?!  I asked.  Yes, a marching band!, he answered sarcastically.

It was a band. Sort of. Actually, it was more like a mob 30,000 strong, jumping, chanting and screaming in tandem.  It was the most musically talented mob I’d ever seen and for a few short minutes at a time, when I could copy the words, I jumped, chanted and screamed with them.  I was a gringo local.  A gringo, but still local for a short time.

To feel the heartbeat of a rabid stadium, to hear it, to smell it – there is nothing more powerful.  Looking across the field at the ant-like figures of colour and sound, I felt moved.  It was no longer about the players down on that grass.  It was about the people.  A show for the people, by the people.  Families in their best blues and yellows gathering on a warm Sunday evening to cheer on a losing team.  Babies on their daddy’s shoulders.  Grandchildren, dads and granddads, three generations of men chanting, swearing and jumping all around us.  It was madness and beauty.

I wish I understood more what it all meant.  I was there, a part of the action, but still an outsider.  Football as foreign as the language. Somehow I understood early on that it isn’t just about scoring goals.  Even as we lost, the chanting and drums continued.  60,000 fans chanted and stood for 90 minutes. NINTEY MINUTES (I was completely knackered by half time)!  If that’s not loyalty, I don’t know what is.

And wow, I learned a whole slew of new Castellano!

Hijo de puta! Hijo de puta!

Dale, gordo! Puta! Puta madre!

and a little more sweetly, translated …

Boca my best friend
this tournament we are going to be with you
we support you with our heart
This tournament we are going to be champions
I don’t care that they say
what the others say
I follow you everywhere
I love you more and more

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Gawd I love Latin America.  They just know how to prioritize all the important things in life.  Forget efficient governments, reliable laws and customer service.  There is passion, great food, tango, gratuitous shows of affection in public, and hoochierobics.

Hoochierobics!

After last night’s not-so-great Reggaeton classes, I figured Areo Interval would be more, you know, technical.  I’d imagined step aerobics with weights and tae-bo and whatever else areo intervals are all about.  Thankfully, I was wrong.

It’s like aerobics but sluttier.  You mambo, you salsa, you grind your ass right down to the floor.  Imagine this and this and this blasting so loud you can’t hear yourself think.  There are mirrors and hips and jiggling and sweat.  It’s aerobics on crack.

What a great way to spend an hour on a random Tuesday night.  Inappropriate dancing, taught by an instructor who inappropriately flirts with the all-female attendees, grinding, sweating, singing and cha-cha-cha-ing all in the name of good health.  Amen to Argentinian aerobics classes.

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Reggaeton

May 4, 2010

I’ve been toying with the idea of getting a gym membership lately and last night, I finally decided YES.  I’m not a gym person.  I can’t do treadmills and weights and elliptical machines all by myself.  The last time I did well at a gym was when I had a trainer.

All of this working from home and taking long walks by the park has been great but my energy levels have been low low low lately. So, I’ve decided to gym it.

Let me just say that Reggaeton dance classes are great.  But you know what I realized?  Reggaeton is actually only *really* great when you’re drunk in some bar in the middle of Lisbon with 4 of your closest girl friends.  Reggaeton at 9 PM on a Monday night while completely sober is SO NOT the same experience. At all.

I think I’ll stick to plain ol’ vanilla aerobics on weeknights.

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