A Girl in the World

africa

Adventures in pooping

December 16, 2009

Bathrooms are always an adventure when on the road, especially in places like Africa and Asia.  They’re like a box of chocolates – you just never know what you’re going to get! We North Americans take our mundane bathroom experiences for granted. Having an actual seat to plant your butt on is a real luxury in so many other parts of the world.

Our one month East African safari was…challenging. I don’t know why I thought I could deal with an all-camping budget safari through the East African bush. Cold showers, drop toilets, bush cooking. I think I overestimated myself.  But there was a lot of learning to be had (like did you know it’s possible to bake apple crumble and bread and cookies over a pit fire?!) and I learned so many ways to pee and poo on the road, you would not believe it. When peeing outdoors (like, on the side of the highway!) the girls and I would do a little stomp and clap dance, just to scare all the snakes and bugs away. You have to pick a spot that slopes downhill towards your body so that you don’t create a puddle by your feet, or worse, splash on yourself. I’ve decided that wearing sandals while outdoor peeing is not pleasant. You practically have to do the splits to prevent the feel of splash on your toes. One tip: never ever ever forget to pack your own toilet paper. We had a supply in the safari truck but I basically stashed toilet paper in every nook and cranny I could find. Supposedly “drip drying” is an alternative but I drew the line before that. There is NO WAY. No way.

And don’t get me started on the state of the “real” bathrooms we had. After a while, I got used to pitch black toilet stalls with holes in the ground. The fun part was counting the seconds it took to hear the “splash” at the bottom of the hole. The sound of the echo told you how big the cavern was. We’d get real worried when toilets didn’t produce the sound at all, like it was an endless well to the centre of the Earth.

On the shores of Lake Malawi, our bathrooms and showers were so dark that I would just walk in with my eyes closed. It scared me less than trying to decipher the strange shapes that I could make out and I didn’t bother to use the torch light.  Why in the world would I want to shine a light into an African drop toilet in the middle of nowhere?!  These were cold, dark and damp, perfect for living, creepy, crawly things to start germinating on the walls and floors.

In Tanzania, we stayed in a converted horse farm and were SPOILED with dry drop toilets – these are apparently really environmentally friendly, less smelly and best for composting. We had hot showers there too (one of two hot showers we had during the 4 week trip!). Ahlehlooshaa for hot showers! Sometimes, perspective hits you like a brick in the face. HOT SHOWERS were heaven with a cherry on top! I was so happy I could have kissed the floor.  S.e.r.i.o.u.s.l.y.

And somewhere else, on a lunch stop between campsites (not sure what country we were in) they had a proper Asian-style toilet at the restuarant (the kind with a hole in the ground and a proper flush). I never could remember which way to squat in those things but everyone told me to face the door. It was sweet for the place to have a huge bucket of water in there but thankfully, I had toilet paper in my pocket!

And in the Serengeti, at a campsite lit solely by our torch lamps, there came a real dilemma for us girls. Two toilets, one choice: use the one with the MASSIVE spider on the wall or the one where someone “missed” the hole altogether?! There was heated debate over this, at a small congregation of us girls by the doors.  I decided to go be friends with the spider. I figured my fabulous singing would lull him to sleep. =)

And today, here I am in Japan, enjoying electronic bidet toilets with heated seats, push-botton washing and water temperature controls. OH PERSPECTIVE! How I love love love thee!

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Safaris and Pastas

December 13, 2009

Finally, I’ve gotten around to updating my gallery – a few months late. Most pictures from Italy, Africa and Argentina are up.  A sampler below.

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Camping on the Ngorogoro crater rim

We camped on the rim of the Ngorogoro crater enroute to our safari in Tanzania. It was the coldest night of the month-long trip. The showers were freezing, the wind was cold and I couldn’t keep warm that entire evening. I was up most of the night shivering into the cold tent, listening to our zebra neighbours munching grass just beside my head. This is wild Africa. No fences, no guards – just open wild beauty. We told stories around the campfire while just a few feet away, the zebras munched away at their dinner. Just amazing.

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Big sky Africa

November 23, 2009

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A big sky in Tanzania’s Serengeti. In a quiet moment just before darkness, a herd of elephants passes us by. See the large version here.

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the most amazing sunset ever

It felt like fire in the sky.  A July sunset in the middle of the Serengeti.  I’ve never seen anything more beautiful.

It’s hard to put myself back in the mindset of Africa today.  Such a crazy time warp to look back on some of these pictures and remember how life was then.  It was such a tough trip.  A month-long safari through the African bush was nothing like I’d imagined it would be.  It was much, much harder.  Up before the crack of dawn to make breakfast, put down the tent and get on the road.  Drive for much of the day through really harsh roads in the middle of nowhere East Africa (Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania and Kenya).  Find the campsite, pitch the tent, run to the showers in hopes of catching the last bits of warm water before it runs out, dinner, and then bed. By 7pm you are so knackered and cold that all you want to do is crawl into your sleeping bag for the rest of the night.  And there is dust and dirt everywhere.  White turns brown, fingernails never look clean and clothes never really wash properly. I remember washing my hair and seeing brown run down the drain.  So gross.

But, oh, the beauty of the place.  So raw and unspoilt.   Descending the Ngorongoro crater at the crack of a misty dawn is the closest I’ve felt to God.  Honestly.  It was breathtaking.

I find it really hard to write about Africa.  Even while I was there, no words came to me when I tried.  It’s a hard place to describe and is probably one of those places that will remain a very deep and personal memory.  And maybe that’s what it’s supposed to be.  Sometimes words aren’t necessary.

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Cairo is absolute madness. Madness. 18M people, dirty, chaotic, polluted and just manic in every possible way.

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The few days I spent there were amazing.

First, I saw the pyramids at Giza. They were so beautiful from afar but a bit of a disappointment up close. I thought they’d be bigger than they were. Like the Acropolis, the Pyramids are an amazing site but the commercialization of the place just made me sad. I guess some sort of commercial system needs to be set up to deal with all the tourists, but it takes away from the awe of such an ancient place. I would have loved some time to myself there to really explore but with all these tour groups shuttling around it was hard to find some quiet time to experience it all. The panoramic shot of all nine pyramids was something though. They are gorgeous from afar.

After Giza, I met up with Anna at the Hyatt on the Nile. Such a beautiful hotel. We’d had dinner there the night before – in a traditional Egyptian restaurant with shisha and live Arabic music. Breezy, great company, great food. My first experience with Africa! We decided to walk from the hotel to Coptic Cairo (Old Cairo). We didn’t realize how far it would be and ended up walking through random streets and neighborhoods for about an hour. The thing that I noticed right away was how little, if any, women there were on the streets. They seem to make a point to not make themselves visible. And so Anna, and I, in our summer dresses, were obviously totally out of place. It was a real eye opener to life in a Muslim country where gender roles are very rigid. There is such comfort in numbers when it comes to travel. We managed to find Coptic Cairo and ended up in the middle of a bunch of Easter celebrations – Christian and Greek. Music, flowers, families. We also made friends at a little cafe – Anna bargained our meal down to less than half their asking price and I think the owners were so amused that they didn’t care to argue! EVERYTHING in Cairo is bargained for! Even menus!

We then went to Khan el-Khalili (the “sook” or market). It was absolute madness. First, we managed to bargain down our cab ride from 30 Egyptian pounds to 7! Seriously, I couldn’t believe Anna! She was amazing! I honestly think that the driver would have taken any amount of money to take us to the market across the city. He seemed really amused – mostly because we were obviously two fish out of water, with no real idea where we were going or how to get there. He took us through the City of the Dead neighborhoods. In Cairo, millions of people live in cemeteries. They’ve built little neighbourhoods with shops in some of the largest cemeteries in the city! And even if he couldn’t speak much English, it was so much fun communicating with him! He dropped us off a few blocks from the market and we walked into street after street looking for the bazaar. We ended up in some random neighborhoods that looked like slums. We saw slaughtered animals hanging from windows, people cooking on the streets and EVERYONE stared at us. It was a little unnerving. And then a fight broke out between two men and everyone started running down the street. We coyly slipped past them. Eventually, we decided to call a co-worker who lived in Cairo to try and figure out where the heck we should be going. After telling him that all we could see were dead animals and food markets, he asked me to give the phone to anyone who spoke Arabic. Luckily, there were two police officers there and they ended up escorting us to the market. So much for adventure.

We then proceeded to bargain our way through some wares. I bought a necklace and a few little trinkets. After a few hours of back and forth, we managed to get ourselves four shisha pipes (gorgeous ones) for a great deal. Bargaining at a market like that is just good fun. It’s a game and these merchants are smart! Really smart. I’m SO bad at it. Had it not been for Anna, I would have overpaid for EVERYTHING in Cairo. She bargains everything down to at least 10% of the asking price and they respect her more for it.

We then went to dinner at an outdoor restaurant by the Nile with white couches and tents. It reminded me a lot of Island in Athens. I LOVE outdoor bars and lounges (North America has yet to get them right!).

Overall, it was great fun! Mostly because it was uncomfortable, unnerving, markedly different and completely unknown. The chanting at prayer time, the language, even the perpetual orange haze that hangs over the city added to the beauty of the place. It is madness everywhere, all at once.

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