A Girl in the World

Travel

Waiting for the very last train home after a night on the town, the quiet underbellies of Westminster Station had never looked so beautiful. Brushed steel and glass, a cavernous network of escalators and staircases engulfed us as we descended down. Why hadn’t we noticed the scale of this place before?

Place is so strongly defined by time in London. A platform that just a few hours earlier had been hot with the chaos of Friday’s commute suddenly transformed into a sensual escape for two. Even the lights held their breaths as stolen kisses echoed in the breezy tunnels.

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After a dinner out with friends last Friday, we decided to walk home from West London all the way to London Bridge. It’s an hour long stroll along the riverbank and is probably my all-time favorite thing about this city; the walking.

London is the only place that I’ve lived where you can wake up on a Saturday morning, walk to breakfast, walk to the park, walk to coffee, walk to the museum, walk to dinner, walk to drinks and walk all the way home all in one day. If you’re blessed enough to have the opportunity to live in the center, this weekend walk will encompass some of the most beautiful landmarks that the city has to offer: the Tate Modern, Saint Paul’s Cathedral, the Millennium Bridge, Tower Bridge, Big Ben etc.

This is what old Europe can offer that no North American city (barring NYC) can: a walking culture amidst small cafés, hidden green spaces and old buildings. Every day is a history lesson.

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A friend once told me that you can live a thousand lives in London and still not discover every nook and cranny of the place. Sure enough, I was reminded of this a few days ago after a work meeting when we wandered into Shoreditch, a too-cool-for-me neighborhood in East London.

There’s a new, industrial, hole-in-the-wall ad agency around every corner, and boutique shops and coffee houses with patrons that look like they’ve come straight out of Rolling Stone magazine. One minute you see a punk-rock ballerina with blonde hair, pink tank and polka-dot tutu saunter across the street and the next minute a mirror image of Lucille Ball from I Love Lucy walks outside to have a smoke, curlers still in her hair.  And every single time I land in this borough I can’t help but feel like I don’t quite belong.  Actually, I feel like a fish out of water.  But that’s what London is.  A city full of surprises.

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I’m in London for the next few weeks and it feels like deja vu from last summer. August in this crazy city I used to call home. It feels different these days; a stronger hint of violence in the air, a little more crowded and chaotic, people less available and more hurried than before. It has changed. Or maybe I have changed.

A few days before I flew out, I was having lunch with a friend who had the opportunity to transfer here for work for six months. We mused about London as if it were an old lover, our voices laced with desperate longing as we spoke about our old haunts, past friends, and the pure, addictive energy of the place.

I lived my twenties here. The weeks were novel and sleepless. I’ve never played and worked so hard in my life. There was always a new friend to meet, another new destination to visit.

These days, I meander the city with a quieter peace inside me. Sometimes I can’t decide if cities shape people or the other way around. I feel like I’ve experienced it both ways. Today, I see past the big monuments, touristy red phone booths and new hipster hangouts. These days, I notice the subtle beauties that sit quietly on the fringes.

This wall, for example, sits behind Guy’s Hospital near London Bridge tube station. I think it’s meant to hide the hospital boiler room. I’ve walked by here countless times during previous visits and hardly noticed a thing. How great is the texture of this wall? And how amazing that it sits in an anonymous street in the back alley of an ugly old hospital? So great.

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When I first moved to Europe, my first “exotic” trip outside of London was to Istanbul. It is one of the most enchanting cities I’ve visited, with its beautiful mosques and towering minarets. I remembering staying at the Swissotel Istanbul and being spoiled with Turkish delights every single night with a view of the Bosphorus Bridge from my window.

Istanbul sits on the border of Europe and Asia – literally. Crossing the Bosphorus Strait finds you standing in the other continent. This means that the people, food, culture and language is a rich mixture of East and West. It is one of the most exotic places in the world.

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Santorini is a dark beauty located in the southern Aegean Sea. An island perched on the rim of an ancient volcano, it s a hot, romantic paradise that is unlike Asia’s tropical beaches. There is an eerie juxtaposition between the honeymooning couples that litter the island every year and the seemingly bottomless caldera that it hugs. The terrain is rough, parched and unforgiving and arriving here for the first time, it is nothing like we expected.

From the ferry ride, it rises out of nowhere, massive cliffs of land jutting from the sea. In the summer heat, the ferry terminal is almost always fogged in from humidity, the kind of humidity that hits you like a brick the moment you step outside.

It’s best to rent a car if you’re staying several days and want to explore the excellent beach bars around the island. The roads are hilly and steep, and with the evening winds, a ride home on a scooter would border on dangerous.

This photograph was taken during a pre-dinner stroll along Oia’s main pedestrian walkway. Hot, breezy evenings are what make this place so incredibly romantic. Dinner on the terrace after a day of sunning on the beach. Rinse and repeat.

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London, Hyde Park

Septembers were my favourite. The walk home from work took an hour and required a diagonal cut through Hyde Park. Belgravia to Notting Hill.

Autumn had never felt more grande than during that evening as I looked down the long lane of tall maples that hugged Park Lane. The crispy crunch of red orange leaves and a warm cool breeze had me bursting with joy. I purposely left work at work; no laptop, no bags, flat shoes and a light coat. Nothing to weigh me down on this most precious of evenings.

After several minutes of walking, the park’s vast open spaces swallowed the traffic of the city streets.  The silence surprised me.  But for the chirp of a bird or laughter between lovers, I had no idea it was possible in a metropolis so big. Vast blue skies were possible too. Not a building could be seen on the horizon by the time I reached the Serpentine and suddenly the day’s worth of meetings, deadlines, phone calls and emails vanished.

On this particular evening, I strolled more slowly than usual, admiring the hummed chirp of summer insects as they readied for the night.  On the grass friends gathered in their loosened ties and unbuttoned coats, joy washing over their faces as they sat with Tesco wine, paper cups and plastic wrapped cheese. Mist hovered softly over the grass, kissing their scattered shoes in the dying light of an Indian summer eve. I smiled for them, amused by the simplicity of their make-shift picnic out. A pang of loneliness came over me.

I wondered what it was that they laughed about as a peered at them from my bench. They’re bitching about work, I thought to myself. The usual chit chat after a long week. The nothing details in conversation that we are compelled to share with people we trust, nurturing intimacy as we open up about our naked, unglamorous lives.

I had left everything and everyone I knew behind to pursue a new life in a new land. I had opportunities to pursue, new places to see, new limits to test. It had been my decision to come here, my decision to start fresh. But in that moment, I longed to join them in their reverie, to be invited into something bigger than my hermit crab shell built for one.

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This is an excerpt from a creative-writing piece about my life in London from 2005 to 2009.  The finished product is coming along very slowly.  I’m posting drafts for practice and feedback; my slow-cook approach towards publishing.

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Our trip to China was such a blur that I can’t remember in my head what the differences are between the cities that we visited. What I remember clearly, however, was our deliberate effort to NOT plan. Besides lodging and a few known sites, we didn’t pre-arrange anything. This gave us the flexibility to wander villages and towns, to turn corners that looked prettier or stranger than the rest, to walk into a coffee shop and pretend to be a local.

This wall appeared to us one afternoon while we were wandering the streets of Lijiang. It hit us like a brick, the sheer beauty of it, and we couldn’t believe that we had it all to ourselves.

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I know, I know, it’s Macau again, but seriously, the city is a treasure trove of gorgeous photographs. It is blessed with the most beautiful, paint chipped, sun damaged, rotten walls. Buildings have a texture here. You can almost describe them as crunchy.  Crusted, chipped and dry, they are beautiful in any light. If this apartment block were a cookie, it’d fall apart completely in your mouth into a thousand pastel pieces of dilapidated Asian architecture deliciousness.

 

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Marrakech is the most photogenic city I’ve ever visited. The walls of the medina, with its ancient clay and red earth origins, transformed the day’s light and turned every nook and cranny into a work of magic. No matter what the hour, light just seemed to dance here. Walls, doors, balconies and seemingly inanimate objects morphed into beautiful tableaus of gorgeous art. It’s the kind of the city that makes you appreciate the simple things, like the way an old bicycle can look so perfectly beautiful beside a rusty chair.

There is a feeling of timelessness in this city, a strong sense that civilizations have come and gone for thousands of years before me and will continue to do so long after I have gone.

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