A Girl in the World

Africa

Marrakech is the most photogenic city I’ve ever visited. The walls of the medina, with its ancient clay and red earth origins, transformed the day’s light and turned every nook and cranny into a work of magic. No matter what the hour, light just seemed to dance here. Walls, doors, balconies and seemingly inanimate objects morphed into beautiful tableaus of gorgeous art. It’s the kind of the city that makes you appreciate the simple things, like the way an old bicycle can look so perfectly beautiful beside a rusty chair.

There is a feeling of timelessness in this city, a strong sense that civilizations have come and gone for thousands of years before me and will continue to do so long after I have gone.

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Adventures in pooping

December 16, 2009

Bathrooms are always an adventure when on the road, especially in places like Africa and Asia.  They’re like a box of chocolates – you just never know what you’re going to get! We North Americans take our mundane bathroom experiences for granted. Having an actual seat to plant your butt on is a real luxury in so many other parts of the world.

Our one month East African safari was…challenging. I don’t know why I thought I could deal with an all-camping budget safari through the East African bush. Cold showers, drop toilets, bush cooking. I think I overestimated myself.  But there was a lot of learning to be had (like did you know it’s possible to bake apple crumble and bread and cookies over a pit fire?!) and I learned so many ways to pee and poo on the road, you would not believe it. When peeing outdoors (like, on the side of the highway!) the girls and I would do a little stomp and clap dance, just to scare all the snakes and bugs away. You have to pick a spot that slopes downhill towards your body so that you don’t create a puddle by your feet, or worse, splash on yourself. I’ve decided that wearing sandals while outdoor peeing is not pleasant. You practically have to do the splits to prevent the feel of splash on your toes. One tip: never ever ever forget to pack your own toilet paper. We had a supply in the safari truck but I basically stashed toilet paper in every nook and cranny I could find. Supposedly “drip drying” is an alternative but I drew the line before that. There is NO WAY. No way.

And don’t get me started on the state of the “real” bathrooms we had. After a while, I got used to pitch black toilet stalls with holes in the ground. The fun part was counting the seconds it took to hear the “splash” at the bottom of the hole. The sound of the echo told you how big the cavern was. We’d get real worried when toilets didn’t produce the sound at all, like it was an endless well to the centre of the Earth.

On the shores of Lake Malawi, our bathrooms and showers were so dark that I would just walk in with my eyes closed. It scared me less than trying to decipher the strange shapes that I could make out and I didn’t bother to use the torch light.  Why in the world would I want to shine a light into an African drop toilet in the middle of nowhere?!  These were cold, dark and damp, perfect for living, creepy, crawly things to start germinating on the walls and floors.

In Tanzania, we stayed in a converted horse farm and were SPOILED with dry drop toilets – these are apparently really environmentally friendly, less smelly and best for composting. We had hot showers there too (one of two hot showers we had during the 4 week trip!). Ahlehlooshaa for hot showers! Sometimes, perspective hits you like a brick in the face. HOT SHOWERS were heaven with a cherry on top! I was so happy I could have kissed the floor.  S.e.r.i.o.u.s.l.y.

And somewhere else, on a lunch stop between campsites (not sure what country we were in) they had a proper Asian-style toilet at the restuarant (the kind with a hole in the ground and a proper flush). I never could remember which way to squat in those things but everyone told me to face the door. It was sweet for the place to have a huge bucket of water in there but thankfully, I had toilet paper in my pocket!

And in the Serengeti, at a campsite lit solely by our torch lamps, there came a real dilemma for us girls. Two toilets, one choice: use the one with the MASSIVE spider on the wall or the one where someone “missed” the hole altogether?! There was heated debate over this, at a small congregation of us girls by the doors.  I decided to go be friends with the spider. I figured my fabulous singing would lull him to sleep. =)

And today, here I am in Japan, enjoying electronic bidet toilets with heated seats, push-botton washing and water temperature controls. OH PERSPECTIVE! How I love love love thee!

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Safaris and Pastas

December 13, 2009

Finally, I’ve gotten around to updating my gallery – a few months late. Most pictures from Italy, Africa and Argentina are up.  A sampler below.

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Camping on the Ngorogoro crater rim

We camped on the rim of the Ngorogoro crater enroute to our safari in Tanzania. It was the coldest night of the month-long trip. The showers were freezing, the wind was cold and I couldn’t keep warm that entire evening. I was up most of the night shivering into the cold tent, listening to our zebra neighbours munching grass just beside my head. This is wild Africa. No fences, no guards – just open wild beauty. We told stories around the campfire while just a few feet away, the zebras munched away at their dinner. Just amazing.

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Big sky Africa

November 23, 2009

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A big sky in Tanzania’s Serengeti. In a quiet moment just before darkness, a herd of elephants passes us by. See the large version here.

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the most amazing sunset ever

It felt like fire in the sky.  A July sunset in the middle of the Serengeti.  I’ve never seen anything more beautiful.

It’s hard to put myself back in the mindset of Africa today.  Such a crazy time warp to look back on some of these pictures and remember how life was then.  It was such a tough trip.  A month-long safari through the African bush was nothing like I’d imagined it would be.  It was much, much harder.  Up before the crack of dawn to make breakfast, put down the tent and get on the road.  Drive for much of the day through really harsh roads in the middle of nowhere East Africa (Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania and Kenya).  Find the campsite, pitch the tent, run to the showers in hopes of catching the last bits of warm water before it runs out, dinner, and then bed. By 7pm you are so knackered and cold that all you want to do is crawl into your sleeping bag for the rest of the night.  And there is dust and dirt everywhere.  White turns brown, fingernails never look clean and clothes never really wash properly. I remember washing my hair and seeing brown run down the drain.  So gross.

But, oh, the beauty of the place.  So raw and unspoilt.   Descending the Ngorongoro crater at the crack of a misty dawn is the closest I’ve felt to God.  Honestly.  It was breathtaking.

I find it really hard to write about Africa.  Even while I was there, no words came to me when I tried.  It’s a hard place to describe and is probably one of those places that will remain a very deep and personal memory.  And maybe that’s what it’s supposed to be.  Sometimes words aren’t necessary.

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Enroute from Zanzibar, Tanzania

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Back from Nairobi

July 25, 2009

It's Saturday in London.  It's warm, the sun is shining and I AM SITTING IN AN INTERNET CAFE!  Isn't that terrible?  AN INTERNET CAFE.  I am paying for internet while in London!  It SUCKS being so cut off from technology.  I feel like someone has cut a limb off.  =)

So, Africa.  It was amazing, rough, hard, dirty, mind expanding and a whole other world.  Taking a shower today in my London flat, washing away the whole city of Nairobi from my skin and hair, felt incredible.  A shower, a bed, HOT WATER, clean sheets.  Perspective.  No other trip has given me such perspective before. 

I have so much to reflect on when it comes to this trip.  Three weeks felt like months.  Emotionally, it was up and down and around.  But all of it was magnificent.  Waking up at dawn, descending into the Ngorogoro Crater, watching the most breathtaking sunsets and appreciating the warmth of campfires at night.  So many random little beautiful moments set against the rawest of backgrounds. 

I am changed, tired, dirty, excited, scared, inspired.  I am everything mixed into one.  I miss home, I miss adventure, I want a nest, I want to fly.  I want it all, and all at once. 

There is lots to sort through now.  Places to see, people to meet, plans to hatch and execute on.  Each day I want something different.  All this freedom!  All this time!  It is a blessing.  A daunting blessing. 

What is next in this great big adventure I've thrown myself into?  =)

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Zanzibar

July 15, 2009

Days on the beach are so hard ;)

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OMG – SUN and WARMTH.  FINALLY!  My spirits are up.  We are in Zanzibar.  White beaches, moorish architecture, dodgy food stalls and fresh sugar cane juice.  Feels so nice to be wandering in sandals again after such cold nights in Zambia and Malawi.

 

Safari-ing has been tough work but it feels so nice to have been away for nearly two weeks.  My mind and body are relaxed.  Stress is a distant memory.  I feel free, happy, relaxed, healthy. 

 

Zanzibar reminds me of Marakesh but not as colourful.  Lots of Arabic influences and the moorish architecture is beautiful.  Tomorrow we are spending the day on the beach.  I CANNOT WAIT.  =)

 

More updates again soon. 

 

Gawd, I MISS THE INTERNET!!!!  =)

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