A Girl in the World

Photography

Child on the roof

Big city living in Buenos Aires is a strange brew of high-energy excitement, chaos and commerce. Nearly a quarter of Argentina’s 40 million residents live and dwell here. The city is sprawling, dirty and beautiful. Immaculate apartment lofts coexist alongside open garbage piles. It’s a metro of dichotomies. One day I am dining with friends of ex-presidents and on the next am brought to tears by the humble love of the cleaning lady. I am enraged and heartbroken all at once, often at the extremes of human emotion amidst the poverty, excess and hardship that this city’s streets throw at me each day. I love and hate it here. It is a mirror that forces me to face the demons of my imperfection. Can I be compassionate, patient, open and strong? Will this city, with its anger and apathy, engulf me or will I rise above?

And then like a flash, a moment of pure innocence catches my breath. I am reminded of what is good and true.

Of God.

A little girl squeals with joy playing with her doll on a rooftop cement playground just after a rainstorm.

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A summer downpour.

It’s amazing how you can hop on a plane for twelve hours and skip the winter. It’s summer here in the Southern Hemisphere and every other day in Buenos Aires, we’re treated to a rainstorm. Warm, jungle-heavy, suddenly-starting-out-of-nowhere rainstorms. Beautiful.

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After four years of renovations, Buenos Aires’ famous Teatro Colon opened on May 25th 2010, just in time of Argentina’s bi-centennial celebrations.  It has been named one of the top three opera houses in the world and is definitely something to behold.

We found tickets for the standing section at the very top, a section named Paradise. Seen as the nosebleeds section of the venue, it supposedly gets the best acoustics in the house. One thing they failed to mention and what we quickly remembered: heat rises. It gets hot up here. However, for 25 pesos each (about $6 USD), the experience was a total bargain!

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Some walls are just too beautiful to photograph bare. Sometimes, you need subjects that can make a statement, subjects that can bring a wall to life.

This was taken in Hoxton Square Bar, a treasure of a place in one of London’s trendiest post codes.  Vaulted ceilings, dimmed cave-like lighting, industrial walls and floors.  It’s as if it were designed by a true artist: the cavernous room his canvas, and the bodies inside his paint.  Every shadow and angle can be a photograph. Dark corners, chiseled profiles, grainy shadows that inspire a girl to write.

A kiss was the only option here. Passion the only way to compete with Grande.

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The Seven Martyrs Church on the headlands of Kastro Sifnos is an eerie site at sunset. The Cyclades islands are rough and dry, their coastlines plunging into the black Aegean. At dusk, the sky glows like there’s a blazing fire nearby. On this warm August eve, goosebumps came over me as the warm pink glow of nightfall enveloped us on the cobblestone path up the hill into town.

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The best things in life I discovered on this small beach in Skopelos, Greece.

The delicious simplicity of a home cooked meal.
The good company of true friends.
The love of a good man.
Joy in the blessing of a sunset.

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It’s a hot September Saturday in the “capital of the world” and in just a few days, I’ll be bidding farewell and boarding a plane back stateside. Every time I leave London, a little piece of my heart breaks. I love and loathe this place like an ex-boyfriend that will forever haunt me in my sleep. Too many epic memories to cherish, one too many differences left unresolved. It’s the city of dreams and possibility, heartache and loneliness, the too-beautiful lover that captivates you the way delicate young women can drive old men mad. London is a city that cannot be tamed. It will never be mine.

Friends, relatives, writers and poets have attempted to capture the essence of this place and every time they do, I learn something new. A chance encounter with a new-found friend today had us talking about London’s amazing ability to give the gift of appreciation. In the absence of open spaces and quiet corners, you somehow find a gratitude for these exact things that you took for granted back home. Abundance from the void.

Barbara Chandler’s Love London is a visual account of the city captured through a series of film photographs and a collection of quotes. I’ve perused it now for over a week and each time I do, I am captivated not only by her ability to present this city in its rawest form (grimy, beautiful, crowded and grande), but also by the places she chose to feature in her collection.  She’s presenting a London that is quintessentially hers but also a city that I feel can be mine, yours, theirs, everyones.  I recognize the monuments, the bridges, the murals, the buildings in her book and instantly feel a kinship with her, the photographer behind the lens.  It is not a tour guide, nor is it a travel book.  Neither is it a collection of pretty postcard photographs that you find at the train station or the airport.  Actually, at first glance, the images are not stunningly impressive nor conventionally beautiful.  But look closer and you’ll find the book’s voice.  Love London is a Londoner’s testimony. It’s an attempt to vindicate the roughness and softness of this city we’ve called home.

How delighted I was to see Barbara’s perspective of the SCARY mural that I stumbled upon in East London just a few weeks ago, her photograph somehow validating my need to take mine.  Her London vindicating my London.

SCARY mural East London

But perhaps what enamors me most of all is the collection of quotes included in the book: so eerily relatable, they give me pause.

“You may be alone and in Company at the same time.” – Henry Fielding (p. 164)

” [In London] love and scandal are the best sweeteners of tea.” – Henry Fielding (p. 142)

“The parks are the lungs of London.” – William Pitt (p.120)

“London is far more difficult to see properly than any other place.” – G.K. Chesterton (p. 116)

“She [London] is just like a vast ocean where sardines as well as whales are living together.” – Yoshio Markino (p. 101)

“…it was a good place for getting lost in, a city no-one ever knew.” – V.S. Naipul (p. 92)

“This melancholy London – I sometimes imagine that the souls of the lost … walk through its streets perpetually.” – W.B. Yeats (p. 71)

Page after page, a feeling of nostalgia hits me.  The grain in her images, the out-of-focus portraits, the ugly beauty of the not-so-glamorous corners of this town.  All of it presents a London that is real. Unpolished, grey, chaotic, hard. Just like mad blind love can be.

Suddenly, my London experience doesn’t feel so existential.  Love London vindicates my complicated love for this city of dreams.

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Waiting for the very last train home after a night on the town, the quiet underbellies of Westminster Station had never looked so beautiful. Brushed steel and glass, a cavernous network of escalators and staircases engulfed us as we descended down. Why hadn’t we noticed the scale of this place before?

Place is so strongly defined by time in London. A platform that just a few hours earlier had been hot with the chaos of Friday’s commute suddenly transformed into a sensual escape for two. Even the lights held their breaths as stolen kisses echoed in the breezy tunnels.

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A friend once told me that you can live a thousand lives in London and still not discover every nook and cranny of the place. Sure enough, I was reminded of this a few days ago after a work meeting when we wandered into Shoreditch, a too-cool-for-me neighborhood in East London.

There’s a new, industrial, hole-in-the-wall ad agency around every corner, and boutique shops and coffee houses with patrons that look like they’ve come straight out of Rolling Stone magazine. One minute you see a punk-rock ballerina with blonde hair, pink tank and polka-dot tutu saunter across the street and the next minute a mirror image of Lucille Ball from I Love Lucy walks outside to have a smoke, curlers still in her hair.  And every single time I land in this borough I can’t help but feel like I don’t quite belong.  Actually, I feel like a fish out of water.  But that’s what London is.  A city full of surprises.

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I’m in London for the next few weeks and it feels like deja vu from last summer. August in this crazy city I used to call home. It feels different these days; a stronger hint of violence in the air, a little more crowded and chaotic, people less available and more hurried than before. It has changed. Or maybe I have changed.

A few days before I flew out, I was having lunch with a friend who had the opportunity to transfer here for work for six months. We mused about London as if it were an old lover, our voices laced with desperate longing as we spoke about our old haunts, past friends, and the pure, addictive energy of the place.

I lived my twenties here. The weeks were novel and sleepless. I’ve never played and worked so hard in my life. There was always a new friend to meet, another new destination to visit.

These days, I meander the city with a quieter peace inside me. Sometimes I can’t decide if cities shape people or the other way around. I feel like I’ve experienced it both ways. Today, I see past the big monuments, touristy red phone booths and new hipster hangouts. These days, I notice the subtle beauties that sit quietly on the fringes.

This wall, for example, sits behind Guy’s Hospital near London Bridge tube station. I think it’s meant to hide the hospital boiler room. I’ve walked by here countless times during previous visits and hardly noticed a thing. How great is the texture of this wall? And how amazing that it sits in an anonymous street in the back alley of an ugly old hospital? So great.

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