A Girl in the World

Grace

Child on the roof

Big city living in Buenos Aires is a strange brew of high-energy excitement, chaos and commerce. Nearly a quarter of Argentina’s 40 million residents live and dwell here. The city is sprawling, dirty and beautiful. Immaculate apartment lofts coexist alongside open garbage piles. It’s a metro of dichotomies. One day I am dining with friends of ex-presidents and on the next am brought to tears by the humble love of the cleaning lady. I am enraged and heartbroken all at once, often at the extremes of human emotion amidst the poverty, excess and hardship that this city’s streets throw at me each day. I love and hate it here. It is a mirror that forces me to face the demons of my imperfection. Can I be compassionate, patient, open and strong? Will this city, with its anger and apathy, engulf me or will I rise above?

And then like a flash, a moment of pure innocence catches my breath. I am reminded of what is good and true.

Of God.

A little girl squeals with joy playing with her doll on a rooftop cement playground just after a rainstorm.

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Gabriel Garcia Marquez, famous writer from Colombia, and Nobel Peace Prize winner for literature, has retired from public life for reasons of health. He has a form of cancer, which is terminal. He has sent a farewell letter to his friends.

One day, I’ll know enough Spanish to be able to understand the original, untranslated version of this letter (I’m sure it reads beautifully) but until then, I couldn’t help but share this piece.

He says:

“If God, for a second, forgot what I have become and granted me a little bit more of life, I would use it to the best of my ability.

I wouldn’t, possibly, say everything that is in my mind, but I would be more thoughtful of all I say. I would give merit to things not for what they are worth, but for what they mean to express.

I would sleep little, I would dream more, because I know that for every minute that we close our eyes, we waste 60 seconds of light.

I would walk while others stop; I would wake while others sleep.

If God would give me a little bit more of life, I would dress in a simple manner, I would place myself in front of the sun, leaving not only my body, but my soul naked at its mercy.

To all men, I would say how mistaken they are when they think that they stop falling in love when they grow old, without knowing that they grow old when they stop falling in love.

I would give wings to children, but I would leave it to them to learn how to fly by themselves.

To old people I would say that death doesn’t arrive when they grow old, but with forgetfulness.

I have learned so much with you all, I have learned that everybody wants to live on top of the mountain, without knowing that true happiness is obtained in the journey taken & the form used to reach the top of the hill.

I have learned that when a newborn baby holds, with its little hand, his father’s finger, it has trapped him for the rest of his life.

I have learned that a man has the right and obligation to look down at another man, only when that man needs help to get up from the ground.

Say always what you feel, not what you think. If I knew that today is the last time that that I am going to see you asleep, I would hug you with all my strength and I would pray to the Lord to let me be the guardian angel of your soul.

If I knew that these are the last moments to see you, I would say ‘I love you’.

There is always tomorrow, and life gives us another opportunity to do things right, but in case I am wrong, and today is all that is left to me, I would love to tell you how much I love you & that I will never forget you.

Tomorrow is never guaranteed to anyone, young or old.

Today could be the last time to see your loved ones, which is why you mustn’t wait; do it today, in case tomorrow never arrives. I am sure you will be sorry you wasted the opportunity today to give a smile, a hug, a kiss, and that you were too busy to grant them their last wish.

Keep your loved ones near you; tell them in their ears and to their faces how much you need them and love them. Love them and treat them well; take your time to tell them ‘I am sorry’;’ forgive me’,'please’ ‘thank you’, and all those loving words you know.

Nobody will know you for your secret thought. Pray for the wisdom and courage to express them.

Show your friends and loved ones how important they are to you.

For you,
With much love,
Your Friend,
Gabriel Garcia Marquez

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Compassion’s pain

July 29, 2010

Sometimes, there are moments I wish I could take back and do-over.  Press life’s Rewind button.

Today, we went to the hospital to get the Boy’s stitches removed (he had minor surgery a few weeks ago and was in for a routine screen).  I hate hospitals.  Especially urgent care (emergency) rooms.  They are creepy.  A symbol of pain, heartbreak, stress.  I’m one of those people who can walk into a room and instantly feel the emotion of the place. Emergency rooms are not zen, no matter how nicely they’re decorated or how many fun magazines there are on the tables.  They make me instantly anxious, so much so that I feel nauseous.

There was a lady in front of us at check-in who was being helped out of a wheelchair.  She must have been in her mid thirties and clearly in a lot of pain.  Tears rolling down her eyes, she shuffled slowly into a room out of sight.  My imagination started running wild with possibilities.  What could have happened to her?  Why is she here alone?  Did someone hurt her?  A few minutes later, she was asked to sit in the waiting room across from me (the Boy had gone in to see someone at this point and it was just me and her, with the TV blasting in the background).  She looked away, ensuring I wouldn’t see her face and she sat there hunched over, clutching her stomach.  I could hear her sobbing.

So much of me wanted to reach out to her and ask what was wrong.  I was in agony for her.  I could feel her pain from across the bright, lifeless room and I wanted so badly to touch her and give her whatever comfort I could provide.  But another part of me feared getting too close.  I feared that I was intruding on her privacy, I feared the possibility of being exposed to a world and life much less innocent and different from my own, I feared her pain.  My heart was breaking.  For her.  And because I was so disappointed in myself for my own cowardice.

A few moments later, a nurse came by to give her some medicine and the Boy came out with a happy smile on his face.  We could go now. Everything was fine.

Except that it was not.

The moment had passed.

Compassion and love could have been exchanged in that moment, in a time  and place when they were needed most, but now the chance will be lost forever.  It’s been a few hours now and I am still feeling ill from the experience.   Terrible.  I couldn’t find the courage to risk my own fears so that I could relieve the pain of another.

I hope the next time, I will be different.  =(

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An overwhelming love

May 9, 2010

The women in my family… are very good at swallowing disappointment and moving on. They have, it has always seemed to me, a sort of talent for changing form, enabling them to dissolve and then flow around the needs of their partners, or the needs of their children, or the needs of mere quotidian reality.  They adjust, adapt, glide, accept. They are mighty in their malleability, almost to the point of superhuman power.  I grew up watching a mother who became with every new day whatever that day required of her.  She produced gills when she needed gills, grew wings when the gills became obsolete, manifested ferocious speed when speed was required, and demonstrated epic patience in other more subtle circumstances.

- Elizabeth Gilbert, Committed

062009MomVisit022

A daughter’s life, by womb and blood and love, is bound inevitably to that of her mother’s.  The loftiest dreams and the deepest pains cross the thresholds of generation to ebb and flow between mother and daughter in a sea of endless tides.

The rock of mom’s love has been my anchor in the storms of my life.  How then, on this Mother’s day weekend, do I give her thanks for all things immeasurable …

… for crying with me in my deepest pains of heartbreak; for hot teas at 2 AM, for answered phone calls during important work meetings, for instilling braveness as we packed boxes, emptied shelves, dusted away memories and started anew

… for sending me off with a smile and a tear, a pain in her heart for the distance between us, but with hope and excitement for the adventures ahead; adventures lived vicariously through daughter because mother didn’t have the chance

… for beautiful random cards in the mail, for hand written notes, for surprise pairs of shoes, for make-up, scarves and exercise balls, trinkets of love and thought

… for laughter that turned to tears; at sunset in Italy as we shared dreams and fears and heartbreak; in a bus careening down the coast, while the driver looked on distracted; at Starbucks next door, tears and coffee and tea

… for “hello” IMs from 6500 miles away, a “hello” that lifts the weight of the world, brings lightness, joy and goodness in an instant

… for dreaming bigger than me, for dreaming bigger things for me, for dreaming that all things good and desired are possible

… for her smile, the smile I’ve thankfully inherited

… for the joyful, patient, beautiful way that she has loved my dad; children learn what they live – we lived in a home full of love, faith and laughter

… for sharing with me the joys of sisterhood – the amazing beautiful love between women; her sisters have become my second mothers; their pains have become my pains, and my pains, theirs

… for teaching graciousness as guest, as host, as friend; a thank you note, a token gift, a bundle of flowers

… for time; always, there was time;  evening walks on the streets of northwest Calgary, during the sunsets of my youth;  conference calls at lunch breaks, London to San Francisco; homework and brainteasers, zoo field trips and candy stores, elementary through junior high

… for teaching strength, wisdom and courage so i can stand up for myself when needed, but always with a reminder to be soft, to forgive, to choose love

… for being a true superwoman: mother, friend, daughter, wife, career woman, kid (at heart) and glamma (to the Bear)

And yet, it’s not enough.  No note of love and thanks will ever be enough to measure the gratitude that I feel for the blessing of Mom’s role in my life.  But I’ve learned that love and gratitude are infinite, meant to be given away.  So on this weekend, in addition to giving thanks to mom, I’m going to give thanks to all the wonderful, amazing, beautiful women in my life, those who’ve been here as mother, friend and confidante.

Thank you Ma Beng, Ma Pei, Ma Beth for the Castelvi in you.  You are the strongest, most generous, most faithful, loving, forgiving women that I know.  I am blessed to share your name.

Thank you Grandma for the early and the late years, for all the moments I can’t remember and for all the moments that I do: home-cooked meals, lunches, love and support; thank you for being the true embodiment of generosity.

Thank you Tita Merle, Tita Norma, Tita Julie, Tita Susan for all things you did that turned my dad into the man he is today, for the unending support, even in the distance.

Thank you Auntie Grace for being my mom away from home during university; for the support, for listening, for always being there.

Thank you Auntie Josie for all that we shared in London and after; for bringing your simple, humble love to one of the harshest cities in the world and reminding me just how beautiful the presence of family can be.

Thank you to all the Tita’s and Mama’s that I didn’t mention, from Calgary, the PI and Vancouver.  For everything that you are as women that has made my time with you that much more special.

Happy Mother’s Day.

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A "Crisis of Coins"

April 29, 2010

This place is the Wild Wild West.  Someone blatantly jumps in front of you in the grocery store queue.  A fist fight on the sidewalk.  Traffic jams at every major and non-major intersection between here and Texas.  Dishonest cabbies, apathetic customer service reps, irresponsible dog owners who refuse to pick up after their pets.  This is Buenos Aires.  It is beauty, love and madness.

Whenever we get together with Porteños, conversations inevitably wander towards politics, the state of the economy and the backwards workings of a once mighty place.  Similar to other young democracies in Asia and other parts of the developing world, Argentina finds itself in the throes of well-meaning leaders who just can’t help being a little more selfish than the next guy.  And being with an Argentinian means that I’m witness to the average Argie’s gripes and frustrations every single day.  Mostly, people find a way to laugh it off.  No sense in worrying about something that you can’t change (ha, the irony of democracy).

Inefficient government and government policies, combined with a resourceful pool of determined citizens yield a system and way of life just a little different from the western world.  Cash-only rental, real estate sales and restaurant transactions.   Bribery in business.  Dishonest and corrupt law enforcement officials.  A virtually zero credit economic system (homes, cars, and rents are all paid in cold hard USD cash).  And, fake money.

Now, friends who’ve visited Argentina in the past have groaned about being duped with fake money by taxi drivers.  Three months of living on and off in the country last year and not once did I come across fake bills.  But last week, as we hurried out of a cab to get to dinner, the cabbie slipped us a 50 peso fake and it was only after a few days that we’d realized we were scammed.  And though 50 pesos only translates to about 12 USD, I don’t like the feeling of being taken advantage of.  I was royally annoyed.

But you know what’s amazing?  Whereas I was annoyed about the situation, the Boy, as always, was cool, calm and collected.  He laughed it off and said that we’d just put the fake back into the system.  Simple.

Right. Of course.  Just put it right back into the system.  Why didn’t I think of that?

And the more time I spend here, the more amazed I am to see how nonchalantly the locals have found a way to cope with such backwardness.  The legal and illegal things have all found a way to weave themselves into the normal course of daily life here.

Last night during dinner, we talked about the “crisis of coins”.  The subway and bus systems here are relatively efficient ways of getting around, albeit not very efficiently managed.  Subway passes only work for subways and most buses only take cash (1 peso, to be exact).  This means that in a city of 9 million people, the majority of the population is ducking underground or hopping on a colectivo every single day, at least twice a day.  Imagine the demand for coins.  One peso coins, to be exact.  And imagine the opportunities if you’re the owner of a corner-street kiosk, selling small change items like candy, cigarettes and chewing gum.  There are crowds of people with two peso, five peso and 10 peso bills aching for change.  Perhaps that little pack of gum over there, instead of pricing it at 1 peso flat, you can price it at 1.25 or 1.50.  Wouldn’t you much rather change a 5 peso bill and earn a few cents more on the transaction?

Supposedly, the demand for coins once created a black market system where people would ask to change a 10 peso bill and be forced to accept 9 pesos in return, the kiosk owner pocketing 1 peso in ‘commission’ for the service.  Clever, no? =)

Coming from clean, boring Canada, the Wild Wild West ways of doing things here fascinate me.  The economic systems that evolve in places where governments are still struggling to rightfully fulfill their duties to the people are incredibly interesting.  It feels like every day yields a new surprise, a different perspective in ways of doing things.

This is what deep travel is all about: the process of peeking around the folds and understanding the quiet ways people cope with their laws and limitations, with all things good and bad about daily life in a big city.  This is a whole new education.

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Quality, not quantity

April 29, 2010

The older we get, the more we need the people we knew when we were young.

It’s 2:30 AM and we’ve just finished with the dishes from tonight’s dinner with friends.  Lots of wine, picadas and pizza.  Wow, it is so nice to be able to socialize with a few familiar faces.  Sometimes, this adventurous lifestyle of moving around and conquering a whole new city can deprive one of the comforting, stable joy of good friends.

Throughout my travels, I’ve met a lot of people.  Crazy, smart, fun individuals who bring their own spice to life.  But as amazing as its been to run around and party with a bunch of strangers who have nothing to lose, there’s nothing more heart warming than catching up with people who’ve known you while sober.  It is so nice to talk about politics, old travel stories, and memories of years past from the comforts of the kitchen table, instead a sticky kiosk from a smokey bar.  Simple, down-to-earth shared time.  It makes such a difference.

The last time we met with Greg and Ana was six months ago when I was here in November.  Back then I was full of pent-up travel angst.  I was itching to hit the road, to see Asia, to wander and jump on the backpacker band wagon.  I wanted to be everywhere at once, happy to be in BA but even happier that it was for a limited amount of time.  Wow, how things change after a little time and a lot of experience. Today, there is zero desire in me to run around marking countries off a long list of things to do.

I *love* the little home that we’ve built here with our small basil plant and fresh daisies.  I love the routine of school, work and coffee dates with friends.  I love the subtitled movies, cheesy Spanish pop radio and corner fruit stands.  I love the stable, constant, tenderness of being with my love.  It has been so good for the soul.

I wish I could kidnap all the important in my life and plant them all in BA.  I don’t need many people.  Just a few good friends, my parents, my brother, my dog.  They’re enough. Actually, they’re more than enough; they’re everything.

These pockets of time catching up over coffee, sharing a meal, going for a walk, or sending an email that is real and open and intimate – all with friends who make a positive difference in my life – are such blessings.  I need to make sure these connections happen more often.  They’re the moments that matter most.

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To market

April 9, 2010

Life is good.  Seriously.  To wake up in the morning and worry about nothing more than buying ingredients for the day’s lunch is just … heaven.  And no, I didn’t win the lottery, nor did I strike it rich with stock, and no I don’t come from old money.  A few months of simple, care free living is so much more affordable than you would think.  And I hope that everyone finds the courage, the time and the support (from loved ones, family members and friends) to do something like this.  It’s so good for the soul.

Today’s big adventure was lunch.  We perused every aisle at the supermarket, we lusted after hand made pastas, we bought a gorgeous block of fresh mozarella cheese.  I picked basil fresh from my little plant in the kitchen, we fried small steaks with oil and garlic, we slurped pumpkin pasta slathered in olive oil and sundried tomatoes.  We cooked while the local radio station blasted latin pop in our bright, breezy apartment.

Life is so good.

I am so blessed.

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A walk in the woods

March 5, 2010

We’re suffering post-olympic trauma.  No more biathlons to watch during breakfast, no more curling pub nights, no more hockey ridiculousness to throw ourselves into.  I can’t believe it’s over!  The city is slowly acclimating to its old self – streets are a little cleaner, transit is far less crowded and evenings in downtown are much much quieter.  So much effort, money, preparation for 16 short days of partying and celebration.  The anticlimax of the afterglow is a bit sad.  This place feels so quiet now.

Our time in Vancouver is also drawing to a close.  Three weeks in gorgeous Kerrisdale: daily walks, evening supper cook-outs, fireside movie nights.  It has all been so so wonderful.  The days have been long, beautiful and relaxed.  Honestly, if you can find the time and the resources to give yourself a few long months of nothingness and everythingness without the responsibilities and pressures of obligation/work, please do it.  Do it, do it, do it.  When time stretches into eons, your dreams catch wind, the clouds in your head clear away and all the important things come up to surface.

Today, we took a long walk around the neighbourhood.  I’ve decided that Spring weather is the best weather for travel.  Forget August summers on the beaches.  A lunchtime Spring walk is refreshing, crisp and clean.  No sweating, no heat, no gasping for air.  We walked cherry blossom lined streets with perfect green glowing grass.  It is cherry blossom season now.  I’ve decided that this time next year, I’ll be in Japan swimming amid cherry blossoms (they’ve got the largest concentration of cherry blossoms in one place on the planet and cherry blossom season is a major holiday there).  This city is gorgeous.  Green, alive, clean, beautiful.  We’ve relied completely on public transportation to get around during the last three weeks and it has been the best.  Cars are so overrated!

Tonight, dinner in.  We’re making homemade yam and beet crisps, tuna and potato tortilla, sticky rice and peanut butter cookies.  That and a movie from iTunes and we’re set for the evening.  =)  I am so thankful for this day.  Such a wonderful blessing.

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Simple beauties

February 24, 2010

Tea bags wrapped in wax paper.

A cold nose after a brisk walk.

A fire on a rainy night.

Rosemary scented hair conditioner.

A warm kitchen on a late winter evening.

Fresh baked bread in the mornings.

Candlelight.

Mama’s big hug at night (real and online).

A voicemail from a faraway friend.

Mittens.

An old book, stained and frayed, a favourite.

Just the right sized pillow.

Chamomile tea in your favourite perfect sized mug.

Sunny mornings.

Fleece on the West Coast.

Loud family parties with great food, crazy babies and a zillion aunts and uncles.

The presence of mind to remember gratitude.

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To growing up

February 4, 2010

I’ve finally ventured out of the rabbit hole and made it out for lunch today. I met actual people! I changed out of my pajamas! I saw the light of day!

It has been nice to come back to a place with familiar friends around. For so long I got used to the idea of landing in a city and making my own way. There is such comfort in knowing that there is a network of great people here who have known me for more than five minutes, who know some random quirk about me, who understand what I’m talking about when I say something cryptic or ambiguous or loaded. That kind of intimacy becomes more and more valuable the older I get.

Over the last few weeks, many great people from the past have walked into my life unexpectedly. There was dinner with an old high school friend in Kuala Lumpur. Email dates with a friend from University. Phone gossiping with a best girl friend. A chance encounter with a locked-away part of history. It sounds like an oxymoron but the past can be so refreshing. All things familiar are all of a sudden new.

A pattern has been consistent throughout all of these encounters: we’re all growing up. Where once we moaned about wanting more excitement, more spontaneity, and more drama, my dear friends are finding peace. There is an overwhelming desire to go back to the simple things, to find meaning, to take control of the uncontrollable. People are having babies, buying houses, getting married, finding love. The values of family, of parenting, of peace, of stability are becoming more and more a part of our conversations.

Instead of just talking about the now, our shared histories enable us to connect the past with the present, so that we can make sense of our future wants and goals. History is important. It’s powerful, it’s deep, it’s healing. And what I realize more and more is that the older we get, the more we need the people we knew when we were young. There is a different kind of intimacy there that can’t be built anew.

Though I’m not yet ready to find a plot of land, build a house and fill it with babies, I do feel the desire to maintain deeper relationships with a small handful of important people, to build closer relationships with my brother and parents, to find some mental and physical peace amidst the chaos of all of this travel and exploration. Maybe growing up means finding balance, finding an equilibrium that gives us the courage and opportunity to grow and the wisdom and perspective to see beauty in the little things.

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